It must have been the book 'Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil', or all the Hollywood movies, I feel the need to discover more of North America, the heart land. I have no baggage, I have no hang ups. I was born and raised in Italy. I am capable to accepting people of all personalities, as long as they are good people. I believe that in the world the majority of people are of a good nature, and those are the people I want to meet on this trip.
I love to make connections, whether we are soaking in the campground jacuzzi, or waiting in a museum line, or having a beer in a bar. I love a good story.

Monday, February 11, 2019

Day 38 - Rockport: Aransas National Wildlife Refuge

What we thought that was the most functional and advanced, after only 4 years ago we wonder if the same device does work at all.  This is the case of my digital camera. Today I had to use it, almost half way through our trip, because it has a decent telescopic lens and this was the only way to take pictures of birds in the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge. 
In the morning we headed to the 'Big Tree', a large oak in Goose Island State Park, to get a glance of the rare whooping cranes. They are tall birds like the sandhill cranes but white with beautiful fluffy feathers, with black on their wing tips and a red mask. They migrate from Canada to the Texas shore to spend the winter for a trip of 2500 miles. 
There are only about 800 birds left and, thank God, they get to live an average of 22 years.
The road kept going toward the gulf and there we met a couple of ornithologists from Austin. They had a large telescope on a tripod and he was wearing a large plastic disc on his chest with a large microphone in the center. He was recording whooping cranes combating half a mile away.
He let us listen to the sounds. We looked at the whooping cranes. What a marvelous and resilient bird.
They told us another location where we could see them. They were on the lawn of a house that had a deer feeder. There were three whooping cranes and two sandhill cranes.

Whooping Cranes 

Sandhill Cranes

Snowy Egret

Egrets


Artistic Picture 'After Harvey'
We were on our way to the park, but we missed the turn off. So we had to do a u-ie down the road and right there we saw a couple of these beauties: Crested Caracaras or Mexican Eagles
Crested Caracara
The Aransas National Wildlife Refuge is a large protected area, north of Rockport.
There are few trails off of the auto tour loop. We hiked the Heron Flats trail and not only did we see heron and spoonbills, but also several alligators soaking in the sun.

Roseate Spoonbill

Tricolored Heron




Double-crested Cormorant

Reddish Egret next to Roseate Spoonbill




We drove a few miles and took the Jones Lake and the Big Tree trails, where we saw some deer by the shore. Finally we went up to the observation towers from where we had a better view of the previous areas. Still there was no sight of the whooping cranes. Instead we saw egrets, heron, ducks and the largest group of turkey vultures I have ever seen. They come in late in the afternoon and when the tourists are gone, they roost for the night on the observation towers. In fact all the ramps were covered by their poops 😂

Great Egret




Sandpiper

Great Blue Heron

Turkey Vultures



This alligator was guarding her babies nearby


Sunday, February 10, 2019

Day 37 - Austin to Rockport


The Goose Island State Park is a beautiful place to park your RV. The moment I stepped out of the car I saw a red cardinal bird. So cute! Each RV area is well spaced and hidden in between trees. At night all is quiet and during the day, bird songs are filling the air.
We take a drive to Rockport. It's not the most happening place. It's Sunday and it's foggy. In the warm weather, it must be more alive than this. We drive through the residential area of  Key Allegro. I finally see the damage caused by hurricane Harvey in August of 2017. Many of the jetties have been wiped out, many houses off stilts have new windows, others are boarded up. It's a lovely area with canals in between house rows like in Venice. Each house has its docking area. We look at home values on Zillow...not too bad.


Saturday, February 9, 2019

Day 36 - Austin: Terry Black's BBQ, Broken Spoke, Rainey street, Geraldine's

It was a cold snap and now I know the meaning of it. It's freezing outside and it happened all of a sudden. We didn't go out all day. Except Albert texted us again, wondering what we were going to do.
The plan was to go to the movies in a really warm place and then maybe check out a honky-tonk bar, since it was our last night in Austin.
So we all went to see 'Vice' in a movie theater that served food. I loved the movie but I was ticked off when a waiter walked up during the movie to ask us if we wanted anything...really? What the heck! Get out of here. I am sorry, but I am old fashioned about movie theaters...no food.

Next, Bill and I were going to throw out of the window all our good intentions about cattle and...pigs. We went to a Texas BBQ, Terry Black's. It was the real thing with all the bells and whistles.
The line was long and we were waiting outdoors in the cold, but it went really fast and soon we were taking our trays covered in double paper, grabbing all kinds of side dishes like potatoes salad, baked beans, coleslaw, pecan pie, peach cobbler. Finally we get to the meat bench. We picked a spicy sausage, ribs, and briskets, and they slapped the piece right on the paper. Awesome!
We devoured everything in minutes and washed it down with Shiner Bock beer.













Then we got a tour of the pit. The briskets are first cooked 8 hours and then smoked for another 8 wrapped in paper. The fire is on 24/7. They have three shifts to cook meat all day long.




At this point, we had to find a place where to burn off all that goodness. So we went to the Broken Spoke, where we had the chance to meet the owner and try out our two-step skills on the dance floor.






Albert decided that the Broken Spoke was not alone representative of the Austin night scene. We didn't go to Sixth street. We went to the better alternative venue and the most frequented by Austinians, Rainey Street. Leave Sixth street to the tourists.
Rainey street is lined by small houses that have resisted the city redevelopment of the last ten years. The homes house various night clubs, pubs, food trucks and a lot of music. They are wedged in between high rise buildings. It's quite a sight and a lot of fun.





Friday, February 8, 2019

Day 35 - Austin: District 2 Mall, Home Slice Pizza

Today it was bitter cold. It rained all night and in the morning.
We wanted to go walking to get our steps in. An indoor shopping mall was going to be the perfect place. I googled the District 2 shopping mall on 2nd street. When we got there, we soon realized that there was no indoor shopping mall and all the shops were outdoor. We were walking in between skyscrapers in a wind tunnel with our eyes watering from the cold. It was miserable and I was not dressed for it.
We recup'd in a small cafe, Jo's coffee, with cappuccinos and a cookie on 2nd street.
In the evening we went out for pizza with Albert, who we had met while in Big Bend. Pizza was at Home Slice Pizza on South Congress. Worth it!


Thursday, February 7, 2019

Day 34 - Austin: Cosmic Coffee, Umlauf Sculpture Garden, Carver Museum

Last night it was balmy, walking along Sixth street. This morning the temperature has dropped. They say tonight it's going to freeze. Figure that!

We went to have lunch at the Cosmic Coffee and Beer Garden off of South Congress Avenue. We were early and it was windy and freezing. No place to eat inside.
Luckily a table got freed up in the patio and then they put on the plastic curtains and turned on the tower heaters.
They serve food from food trucks parked in the beer garden, and coffee is served from ...the coffee shop. The food and the beer were excellent.


Our friends Julian and Anne had recently moved to Austin. We talked a lot about how you can afford a 4 bedroom and 3 1/2 bath home for a third of the money you would need in the Bay Area or even Seattle.
Austin rocks on this point of view. There are job opportunities. Apple and Google have moved in and they are planning to expand. It takes only 10 minutes to go anywhere. Some locals complain about the traffic. I think they mean that there are cars on the road 😏.

After that we went to visit the Umlauf Sculpture Garden near Zilker park... some' to do.
Charles Umlauf was a famous sculptor and a professor at the University of Texas and in 1985 he donated the garden with all his sculptures to the city of Austin.
But what you really want to know is that Farrah Fawcett was one of his students. Yes! That one, from Charlie's Angels. After switching her major from microbiology to art, she became one of Umlauf's most serious students. Their friendship continued through the years. She continued to create artwork and she collected many of the Umlauf sculptures.


We took a walk in the garden.












The weather was not improving so we opted for more indoor activities. We went to visit the George Washington Carver Museum off of Rosewood Avenue.
I didn't know about Juneteenth Independence Day, also known as Freedom Day, which is on the June 19, 1865. It took Texas and the confederate states a bit longer than the rest of the union to announce the abolition of slavery... just a few more months...
In fact, the 13th amendment, which formally abolished slavery in the United States, was passed by the Senate on April 8, 1864, and the House on January 31, 1865. On February 1, 1865, President Abraham Lincoln approved the Joint Resolution of Congress submitting the proposed amendment to the state legislatures.

Anyways, this day is celebrated in several cities across the states, and I am planning to attend one this summer... they say the food is superb!

In the museum there were a few rooms dedicated to African American Texans and their contribution to the growth of Texas, from farmers to preachers, from inventors to astronauts. It reminded me of another museum that I had seen in San Francisco about Italian immigrants and their proud and resilient communities. 

There was another room dedicated to a Nigerian American artist, Eto Otitigbe. 
This installation was entitled "Subwaves".





I read more about this artist. He is a multimedia artist and performer. He is interested in the relationships between people and their struggles to survive together and mainly the byproduct of all of this. 
I like his stuff!