It must have been the book 'Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil', or all the Hollywood movies, I feel the need to discover more of North America, the heart land. I have no baggage, I have no hang ups. I was born and raised in Italy. I am capable to accepting people of all personalities, as long as they are good people. I believe that in the world the majority of people are of a good nature, and those are the people I want to meet on this trip.
I love to make connections, whether we are soaking in the campground jacuzzi, or waiting in a museum line, or having a beer in a bar. I love a good story.

Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Day 75 - Birmingham to Nashville

It was a long drive but pleasant.
This campground is very close to the city. It has no amenities and it's by a road. There are a lot of permanent campers.
The manager is nice and helpful. There was an issue with our faucet and he came with his assistant to change it with a new one. He also helped us back in which was awesome!

At night we drove out to Music Row area and we found free parking by BMI.
We went to the Tin Roof bar, because every Wednesday they feature 6 new artists. Each one performs 3 new songs. This is not the main venue, but it feels more like the original one, where artists would try to break into the business by performing their original songs with their bands and it was not necessarily for tourists. I am glad we spent our evening here.

The first guy was alone with his acoustic guitar. Maybe the sound was not refined, or the words were not flowing but he was singing out from his heart and his shoes were the bomb.

Other bands followed, some so loud our ears got a workout (mental note: bring ear plugs when in Nashville).
There was a rap duo. They were worth the video 😄


Everyone liked this young guy. He was so romantic and his girlfriend was on the sidelines lip-sinking, and with that I don't mean his buddy working on the background. Cute!






Tuesday, March 19, 2019

Day 74 - Birmingham 16th Street Baptist Church, Elizabeth Warren

We had to stay an extra day, despite losing one day in Nashville. Last night we saw on the news that Elizabeth Warren, presidential candidate and senator was going to be in Birmingham for a rally. Bill hadn't been to a presidential rally yet.

During the day, we visited the Sixteenth Street Baptist Church, which was unfortunately famous for the 1963 bombing, where four girls lost their lives. In the tour, we sat in the pews and watched a video about the history of the church and its important role in the Civil Rights Movement. Video of real footage was showing young guys and girls standing on the front stairs, demonstrating against institutionalized racism. The front square was witness to non-violence protests, led by school children, being quenched with tear gas and water hoses. I think it was all these traumatic images that the rest of the world couldn't take anymore, and finally laws were passed. The Civil Rights Act was passed the following year; and in 1965 the Voting Rights Act was passed, making literacy tests and poll taxes illegal.


16th Street Baptist Church





This stained glass had been ruined in the bombing. Jesus' face and part of his cape was missing, but has since been restored.

Memorial to the four girls and location of the bombing


This window was donated by the people of Wales after the 1963 bombing of the church. The artist,  John Petts depicted a black Jesus with his arms outstretched. The right hand symbolizes oppression, his left is asking for forgiveness.







We walked around 4th street, where the Carver Theater for the Performing Arts and the Alabama Jazz Hall of Fame are located. Unfortunately there are no tours for the theater unless we buy tickets for a performance, and the person in charge of the hall of fame decided to have a very short working day and had just left. At least, this is what the barber next door to the museum told us. He was sitting outside, basking in the sun. He was having a slow day. He was apologizing for the museum operator. We love it when we get to speak with someone local and we always have plenty of time to shoot the breeze. We also learn a lot about local events and venues to visit.
We talked about Birmingham but also about Selma, Montgomery and travelling.
After a while, he told us that we had to pay a visit to the Eddie Kendricks and the Temptation Park.
So we did. It's a small one but the statues are awesome. I remember a couple of the songs from the titles on the wall. I could hear it in the air 😊





The rally was at the Boutwell Auditorium. Despite being in a mostly republican city and on a weekday, 500 people showed up. It was well organized and Elizabeth Warren showed up on time.
It is always exciting being in the presence of someone so famous. We recognize the face, the voice and mannerisms. She is full of energy and bounces around the stage. It is all staged. She is well rehearsed but despite that she comes out genuine. I might be biased on this comment...
She gives a straight talk, as she punctuates her points by dividing them into parts... part one we do this... part two we do that. It makes it really clear. I like what she says: Medicare for all, 2% increase tax on the 50 million and above rich, free daycare. And then she keeps hammering on the concept of unionizing. I feel my brain going on emergency brakes... what unionize? Wait a minute! I recognize it's my Dad's thinking that had slipped into my head from childhood. He was a small business owner, trying to keep his company afloat in the 70's in Italy. But here in the USA, it's a different story. The working class does not have even remotely what is a given in Europe.  I go back on my thoughts. Yes we need the unions here not only for the giant corporations that can afford teams of expensive lawyers, but for all the workers... until basics are guaranteed... OK I am done with my rant 😏














Sunday, March 17, 2019

Day 72 - Bethel Baptist Church, Birmingham Sloss Furnaces, Civil Rights Museum, Vulcan Park


It is Sunday and many tourist sites are either closed or have limited hours. And tomorrow, Monday, even more places are closed. So we decided to do some touring today and just run errands tomorrow. We start out by driving to a famous civil rights site, the Bethel Baptist church. During the civil rights movement Fred Shuttlesworth was pastor of the church, and in these years the church was bombed 3 times. In fact, during the civil rights movement there were so many bombings that Birmingham took on the nickname Bombingham. Being Sunday the church was closed to tours so we just drove by.







Birmingham started off as an iron/steel production town, and the city has preserved one of the oldest industrial sites, the Sloss pig iron-producing blast furnaces. It is open today so we stopped by to check it out.


Lunch before the museum opens

The visitor center, roof and fountains fit in nicely with the industrial surroundings



View from the visitor center of covered area where pig iron was formed to blast furnaces in the distance







Throughout the site there are also iron art work pieces


Cool iron/cement art piece





What!
Photo of one of the blast furnaces 

Iron ore + limestone + coal is dropped down the top, and steam is blasted up from the bottom

As the rocks drop down through the 3800F steam a reaction takes place and molten iron ore accumulates in the bottom
A lot of metal pipes bringing steam to the furnaces and taking away gases
The molten iron pours out the bottom and into larger and then smaller troughs formed in the sand

The final smaller troughs look like piglets hence the term pig-iron


Boilers to produce the steam




More artwork









Excess water is cooled in fountains




Where in the world is Francesca :)



Lots of huge machinery to stroll by





Giant flywheels

And giant wrenches!









The Birmingham Civil Rights museum is open so heading there next. The museum has a very comprehensive series of exhibits showing the history of the civil rights movement. Below are snapshots of some of what we saw.










Students train for non-violence before a rally

Sit-ins


University professor and main tactician for non-violence in Nashville student movement

Freedom rider

Just outside of the museum is Kelly Ingram park. This site was home to many civil rights protests and to the infamous event in which student protesters were fired upon by water cannons (fire dept.) and attacked by police dogs. Also next to the park is the 16th Street Baptist Church where a bombing killed 4 young girls during Sunday school.

Statue commemorating the young girls killed at the 16th Street Baptist Church

MLK

16h Street Baptist Church across the street

Memorial to activists

Famous civil rights leaders
The day is young and we still have energy, so we head to Vulcan park where there is a huge statue of the Roman god Vulcan that overlooks the city. 

Vulcan is the god of the forge and metalworking, appropriate for the history of Birmingham




The sculptor was, of course, Italian!



The museum has interesting displays, like this one showing how pig-iron is made (iron-ore + limestome + coal)

View from the statue








Back into town we visit the south side, the hip part of town with vegetarian restaurants, breweries and cafe's. Fun statue in middle of this neighborhood of happy animals.