It must have been the book 'Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil', or all the Hollywood movies, I feel the need to discover more of North America, the heart land. I have no baggage, I have no hang ups. I was born and raised in Italy. I am capable to accepting people of all personalities, as long as they are good people. I believe that in the world the majority of people are of a good nature, and those are the people I want to meet on this trip.
I love to make connections, whether we are soaking in the campground jacuzzi, or waiting in a museum line, or having a beer in a bar. I love a good story.

Thursday, February 21, 2019

Day 48 - Baton Rouge: Houmas House

I wanted to see the Mississippi river and touch it with my own two hands.
One of the things listed to see in google trips was the plantation Houmas House or Burnside Plantation, and it was on the river. The alternative was the Capitol Building. Not this time... I wanted to keep breathing fresh air, and it was a gorgeous day.



It was an easy 40 minutes drive to Burnside. We had to run through the gardens to make it to the tour on time. Our docent, Bobby, was wearing a costume of the era and she was followed by two large male turkeys, that were strutting while spreading their tail feathers to the max.



The current mansion style is Greek Revival, two-and-a-half stories high and is surrounded by 14 monumental Doric columns on three sides, and a widow's walk on the roof top. It was stunning with the gardens as a perfect setting.
The tour took us through several rooms, showing the luxurious life style. There are several art works including one Paul Gauguin and one recent work by George Rodrigue of two aunt relatives.































After the tour we took a stroll in the gardens and we met the turkeys' caregiver, and lucky for him, he lives in a cabin within the villa grounds.
The garden includes secular live oaks surrounding an oval pond with swans. Squirrels are chasing each other up oak trees and on the lawn. Flocks of birds swoop down and land on the lawn. Sculptures are placed on every turn of the pathway in dramatic postures to emphasize the beauty. It is an idyllic place. I was imagining myself living in the house and having a life of leisure.















The docent had mentioned that the owner loved to have at least three drinks a day of Mint Julep. We asked what it was and she suggested that we order one at the Turtle bar. We were in the mood. The drink contains mint syrup, mint leaves, citrus bitters and whole lot of bourbon.



Needless to say, we got drunk in the cozy living room of the Carriage House restaurant. We had to stay and wait it out. So we had dinner with a bowl of gumbo. Everything was perfect.
On the way out, I had to run up the levee to see the Mississippi... Mississippi one...Mississippi two...Mississippi three... here I am staring at a vast body of water. Lights are twinkling on the other shore. It is sunset. I immerse both my hands into the muddy water.

At the beginning I did not mention that I had read the wiki on Houmas House, to get the details, to be precise on dates and names. I wanted to give a picture of how I truly felt that day, in a daze of happiness. It's not that I was not thinking about the elephant in the room, in this case the slaves, it's just that I was content with the docent's brief comment that the owner was magnanimous and freed all his slaves before the civil war and let them own parcels of land including their cabins...He was a good guy, nothing to see here, let's move on.
I also did not mention that I gasped when I read online that the sugar baron of this house owned approximately 750 slaves on the premises, and a total of 2200 slaves when counting all the other properties that he owned. 2200! Not a mention in the tour other than the two words that I wrote above.
It's like going to visit Mauthausen and never mention the Jewish people...In a reply to a negative review, the current house owner advises the reviewer to visit other venues, where one can see the life of the slaves. This location caters to the entertainment business. In this house they have weddings. It's hard to get over something like this. The history is not told. I have a hard time finding any information from the internet.
It's very frustrating. It's lack of respect for those who suffered and died, it's a missed opportunity to teach the new generations that this has happened and certain things cannot be taken lightly. People do behave badly when they are not educated.


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